Satin dresses with a twisted drape are romantically trailed by billowing scarves. Felted wools are slightly shrunken, ribbed knits left unbuttoned, or worn askew. In a perfected perspective on punk, knitwear appears cleanly slashed or gently warped. A clean-cut mac falls open to flash its sequined lining bias-cut draped dresses or Persian lamb bibs appear with harnessed straps. Lace is lacquered and layered flashes of fetishism appear through slips of lingerie peeking through, or thigh-high lace-up boots. Masculine tailoring and traditional fabrics are twisted into feminine forms, while elements of utilitarianism appear throughout: boilersuits, aprons, uniforms.
The illusion of insouciance is elegantly constructed, and pieces are designed to be worn every which way.
#Subtle subversion archive#
Drawing directly upon the wardrobe of Delfina Delettrez Fendi – how she wears her FENDI archive with an instinctive sense of self-expression – here is a collection which plays with binaries: the exploration and elevation of deconstruction the interpolation of gendered archetypes the disturbance of ladylike sophistication. There’s a chicness but a perversity to the way she twists FENDI, which is what I love.” – Kim Jonesįor Autumn/Winter 2023, Kim Jones explores classicism and elegance through the lens of subtle subversion.
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